Crab Stick

Method

1. Cut 200 g of skinless pollock into rough 2 cm pieces and rinse them in a bowl of iced water, changing the water three times and draining well each time, until it runs clear. This washing is what turns fish into surimi. Gather the fish in a square of muslin and wring out hard so it is barely damp.
2. Put the fish in a food processor with 0.75 tsp of fine sea salt and blitz in short bursts for 2-3 minutes, scraping down twice, until it turns from crumbs into a tacky, elastic paste that clings to the blade. Salt-grinding develops the springy ashi texture, so do not stop early; keep the paste cold, pausing if the bowl warms.
3. With the motor running, add 0.5 tsp of caster sugar, 1 tsp of mirin, 1 tsp of sake, 0.25 tsp of kombu dashi powder and 1 chilled egg white, then 15 g of potato starch and finally 2 tbsp of iced water. Blitz 1 minute more to a smooth, glossy paste with the body of thick choux; scrape it into a bowl set over ice while you set up the steamer.