A proper British fishcake: floury mashed potato bound with flaked smoked haddock, parsley and mustard, crumbed and shallow-fried until golden and crisp. Two cakes for one, with a lemon wedge to cut the richness.
Put 150 g of peeled potato chunks into a small pan of cold salted water, bring to the boil and simmer for 15 minutes, until a knife slides through with no resistance. Drain well, return to the dry pan and set over low heat for 1 minute to steam off any moisture — wet mash makes a fishcake that collapses in the pan.
While the potato cooks, lay 120 g of smoked haddock in a small frying pan, pour over 100 ml of whole milk and tuck in the bay leaf. Bring barely to a simmer and poach gently for 4-5 minutes, until the flesh is opaque and parts into flakes. Lift the fish onto a plate with a slotted spoon, discard the milk and bay leaf, and flake the fish into large pieces, checking for bones and skin.
Mash the hot potato smooth with 10 g of butter, 0.5 tsp of Dijon mustard, 1 tbsp of chopped parsley and the zest of 0.25 lemon. Season with salt and plenty of black pepper, tasting as you go — the smoked fish is already salty.
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