The cold noodle soup of the Koryo-saram, the Koreans of Central Asia: chilled beef broth poured over rinsed wheat noodles, topped with a sharp soy-and-vinegar vegetable fry, sliced brisket and shredded egg. Eaten sour, cold and slurped straight from the bowl.
Put 120 g of beef brisket in a small saucepan with 700 ml of cold water and bring slowly to the boil over medium heat. Skim off every trace of grey foam, then add 1 bay leaf, 1 peeled garlic clove and a good pinch of salt. Lower the heat so the surface barely trembles and simmer, uncovered, for 75 minutes, until the meat gives easily to a skewer.
Lift out the beef and leave it to cool, then slice it across the grain into thin strips. Strain the broth through a fine sieve, taste and season with salt so it is a touch saltier than you would drink warm, then chill it in the fridge for at least 1 hour until properly cold. Chill the sliced beef too.
Beat 1 egg with a pinch of salt. Heat 1 tsp of oil in a small frying pan over medium-low heat, pour in the egg and swirl to a thin sheet; cook 1-2 minutes until just set, without colouring, flip briefly, then slide out, roll up and shred into fine ribbons.
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