Murri

Method

1. Put 60 g of wholemeal barley flour into a dry, heavy-based frying pan over medium-low heat. Stir it without stopping for 20-25 minutes: it will go sandy, then hazelnut, then the colour of dark chocolate, and smell of burnt bread and toffee. Take it just to the edge of scorching, then tip it straight onto a cold plate so it stops cooking.
2. Crush 0.5 tsp of fennel seeds and 0.5 tsp of coriander seeds coarsely in a mortar, leaving 0.25 tsp of nigella seeds whole. Warm 1 pinch of saffron threads for a few seconds in the still-hot pan, then crumble them between your fingers.
3. In a small saucepan dissolve 15 g of fine sea salt in 300 ml of water over low heat. Whisk in the toasted flour a spoonful at a time so no lumps form, then add the crushed spices and saffron, 1 tsp of honey and 1 bay leaf.
4. Bring to a bare simmer, with only a lazy bubble breaking the surface, and cook uncovered for 40 minutes, stirring every few minutes and scraping the base so the flour cannot settle and burn. It should thicken to a loose gravy and turn near-black.