Narutomaki

Method

1. Cut 250 g of skinless white fish into rough 3 cm chunks, checking for bones. Put them in a bowl of cold water, swirl for 30 seconds and drain; repeat once more. This washing is what gives narutomaki its clean white colour and bounce. Drain in a sieve, then press the fish between kitchen paper until really dry.
2. Pound the fish with 5 g of fine salt in a suribachi, or pulse it in a chilled food processor, for 3-4 minutes until it turns from crumbly mince into a sticky, glossy paste that clings to the pestle. Keep everything cold; if the paste warms up it will not set springy.
3. Work in 1 tsp of caster sugar, 1 tbsp of mirin, 1 tsp of sake and 1 egg white, then 2 tsp of potato starch and finally 2 tbsp of iced water, a spoonful at a time. Keep pounding or pulsing for another 2 minutes until the paste is smooth, pale and stiff enough to hold a peak. Rub it through a sieve if you want a truly silky texture.