Grilled banana-leaf parcels of pounded mackerel beaten with coconut milk and a fragrant yellow spice paste — smoky, springy and just a little chilli-hot, eaten hot off the coals.
Pass 4 pieces of banana leaf briefly over a gas flame or dip them in boiling water for 10 seconds, until they turn glossy and go limp enough to fold without splitting. Wipe dry and set aside.
Pound 2 small shallots, 1 garlic clove, 1 candlenut, 1 red chilli and 1 cm of fresh turmeric in a mortar to a smooth yellow paste — a stone mortar gives a better texture than a blender at this small volume.
Heat 1 tsp of vegetable oil in a small frying pan over a medium-low heat and fry the paste for 2 minutes, stirring, until it smells sweet and no longer raw and the oil takes on colour. Scrape into a bowl and leave until completely cold.
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