Rajma

Method

1. The night before, rinse 70 g of dried kidney beans in two or three changes of water and leave them to soak in plenty of cold water for at least 8 hours, or overnight. They should swell to more than double their size.
2. Drain the soaked beans and put them in a pressure cooker with 400 ml of fresh water and 0.25 tsp of the salt. Bring to full pressure over high heat, then cook on low for 25 minutes (5 to 6 whistles). Let the pressure drop naturally. A bean should crush to a paste between finger and thumb with no chalky centre; if not, cook another 5 minutes. Do not drain — the starchy liquor is what thickens the gravy.
3. Warm 1 tbsp of ghee in a small heavy pan or karahi over medium heat. Add 0.5 tsp of cumin seeds and 1 bay leaf; when the cumin sizzles and smells toasted, after about 20 seconds, add 80 g of finely chopped onion with a pinch of salt. Fry, stirring often, for 7 minutes until the onion is evenly deep golden brown — this colour is the backbone of the gravy.