The great winter vegetable pot of Gujarat: purple yam, sweet potato, baby potatoes and small brinjals stuffed with a fresh coconut, coriander and green chilli masala, layered over surti papdi and tuvar lilva and steamed slowly with fried methi muthiya. Sweet, hot and faintly bitter all at once, and eaten with hot puri.
Make the muthiya first. Rub together 30 g gram flour, 15 g coarse wholewheat flour, 25 g chopped fenugreek leaves, 0.25 tsp ajwain, 0.25 tsp turmeric, 0.25 tsp red chilli powder, 0.25 tsp salt, 0.5 tsp sugar and 1 pinch bicarbonate of soda. Add 1 tbsp water a little at a time and work to a stiff, just-cohesive dough — the methi releases moisture, so go slowly. Rest 5 minutes, then roll into 6 small dumplings about the size of a large olive.
Heat the deep-frying oil in a small karahi to 170C — a scrap of dough should rise steadily with fine bubbles. Fry the muthiya for 4-5 minutes, turning, until deep golden and firm right through. Lift onto kitchen paper and set aside.
Pound the green masala in a mortar, or pulse briefly in a small grinder without water: 3 tbsp grated fresh coconut, 20 g chopped coriander, 2 green chillies, 1 tsp grated ginger, 2 cloves garlic, 1 tsp sesame seeds, 1 tsp coriander-cumin powder, 1 tsp sugar, 0.25 tsp turmeric, 0.25 tsp red chilli powder, 0.75 tsp salt and 1 tsp lemon juice. Keep it coarse and dry-ish, not a smooth paste.
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